The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the World
So far, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from development by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Production
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins into the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on